Top: living room and bottom: dining room

Amsterdam. In exploring alternative accommodations in Amsterdam after our cruise, I settled on the Het Lam apartment on the Prinsengracht in the Spiegel Quarter, within walking distance to the Rijksmuseum and van Gogh Museum. The apartment is in short walking distance of two grocery stores, shops, and many restaurants (which we did not find particularly interesting).

Should you care to partake in Amsterdam’s marijuana culture, two Marijuana cafes are located close by. The area appeared to be quite safe, and we walked around day and night without concern.

Het Lam is located in a seventeenth century residence that was originally utilized as a warehouse. Located on the fourth floor (no elevator), and at the back of the building, the Het Lam has a large airy living room/dining room, a fully equipped kitchen, and upstairs there is one bathroom and two bedrooms. There are no handrails to the steep staircase, and should be added by the owners for safety.

The living room is large and furnished with a small couch, two club chairs, a large well stocked antique bookcase, armoire, and a dining table for four. Ancient beams cross the ceiling, and three large windows let in plenty of light during the day. At night, however, a single lamp was provided next to the couch for reading, which was inadequate. An additional end table, reading lamp, and coffee table would have been useful.

The kitchen is large and nicely decorated in Delft tile with modern appliances, a table and chairs for four, and has a washing machine with no dryer. Dishes, glassware, pots, pans, silver ware, and cooking utensils are provided, as well as a large countertop. The kitchen is not equipped with a dishwasher. A coat closet with good hangers opens into the kitchen.

The apartment has wood floors throughout with an oriental style rug in the living room that provided a good image.

The apartment’s owner is located just across a small courtyard, and was both exceptionally charming and helpful. An interesting art historian, he was pleased to spend time chatting with us on several occasions, provided valuable advice and information on Amsterdam. One evening he stopped by for cocktails, bringing with him glasses of Genever, a juniper-flavored and strongly alcoholic traditional liquor of the Netherlands and Belgium, from which gin evolved.

Upon arrival, housekeeping was good but not thorough. Maintenance was a rather slipshod affair with curtain rods not held in place, some electrical plugs not working, and light bulbs needing replacement. We were unable to connect to the internet although wireless was provided.

All in all, however, the Het Lam apartment is of good value and should be seriously considered when selecting an Amsterdam apartment.

Top to bottom: City of Metz, Luxembourg City: The Petrusse Valley

Day 1. We met our guide at 10 AM at the Paris Est train station to board a high-speed TGV train bound for Metz, founded 3,000 years ago by the Gallic tribe of Mediomatrici from which it derives its name. The Old Town is grouped around arcaded Place St-Louis with its characteristic stone-buttressed houses from the 14^th to 16^th century. It’s a quite charming city and is famous for its yellow limestone architecture, due to the extensive use of the Jaumont stone.

In fact, Metz is home to a mishmash of architectural layers, witnessing its millennium history at the crossroad of different cultures. Thus, from its Gallo-Roman past, the city conserves vestiges of the thermae (in the basement of Metz’s museums), parts of an aqueduct, and Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains basilica. The Saint-Louis square with its arcades, where currency changers gathered, remains a major symbol of the High Medieval heritage of the city, as well as a Knights Templar chapel. The Gothic cathedral, several churches and Hôtels, and two remarkable municipal granaries reflect the Late Middle Ages.

Next, we traveled by motor coach to Luxembourg, where we had a tour of the capital of the Grand Duchy.  One of the smallest countries in the world, Luxembourg is also the world’s only grand duchy. The Capitol, Luxembourg City, was built in a spectacular location, on a high rocky bluff rising steeply from the gorges carved out of the rivers Alzette and Petrusse.

Less than half a million people live in this tiny, prosperous nation, which is landlocked and bordered by Belgium, France, and Germany. The national language is Luxembourgian (a German dialect), but French and German are also officially used.

This visit was followed by a drive to see the American Cemetery and Memorial, resting place of Gen. George S. Patton Jr. The rows of white stone crosses and Star of David headstones create a somber remembrance of the World War II battles fought in the area.

While walking through the cemetery I noticed that small pebbles had be placed on the headstones of some of the graves, especially that of General Patton. These pebbles represent the Jewish tradition of leaving a pebble or stone on top of a headstone to signify that someone has honored the deceased person’s memory with a visit to the grave. A poignant act of remembrance.

In the late afternoon we arrived in the small river town of Remich, Luxembourg, to board our ship, the MS AmaDante.  My first impression of the AmaDante is that she does not look like a traditional cruise ship. She has three decks, of which the top two offer large floor to ceiling sliding glass doors for each cabin, each with French Balconies. These balconies are simple railings about half way up the window casings which allow passengers to completely open their individual sliding doors in safety while observing the passing scenery. The ship is a little boxy in appearance and is wide and low. Once underway it becomes apparent that the ship has been constructed to maximize its size yet pass under the low bridges of the region, and through the narrow locks. She has a modern first rate look, and appears to be scrupulously maintained.

Going on board one is met in a well-appointed reception area by a smiling, courteous, uniformed staff; clearly eager to please.

Guests were then shown to their cabins which were, again, tastefully decorated. Cabins were inclusive of the expected mirrors (to give the allusion of spaciousness), ample closet space, a monitor which provided access to television, selected on board movies and internet service, a safe, white terry cloth robes and slippers, two club chairs and bedside tables with reading lamps, individual temperature control, and a nice carpet is underfoot. Bottled water was delivered every day. The marble and fully tiled bathroom was spotless, and offered a modern shower compartment with multiple shower heads, a hair dryer, and a nice assortment of toiletries. The water pressure was excellent and hot water abundant.

Top to bottom: Gen. Patton’s Grave, American Cemetery and Memorial, Pebbles on headstones

The cabins’ focal point is the floor to ceiling sliding glass doors that provide excellent views of the surrounding countryside, castles, and villages along the river bank, and can be viewed from the club chairs or while lying in bed. These sliding doors are far superior to other ships on the river as, unlike their fixed smaller windows, the AmaDante windows offer not only better views, but can be opened to let in fresh air. These windows are available on all decks except the Piano, which has smaller, fixed windows. Such cabins are, however, less expensive, and have all the features of other cabins. Jr. Suites, on the Violin Deck, are 255 sq. ft. and include a larger seating area and bath.

Although limited room service is provided on board, I could find no notice of such in my cabin or a room service menu. I only found out about its availability while lamenting its absence to an AMA Waterways execution on board the last night of the cruise. I would certainly have used it, at least for AM coffee and croissants, had I known.

Following a short time to unpack, guests were invited to a “Welcome Aboard” wine reception during which the ship’s captain introduced key crew members and reviewed ship policies and safety procedures.  The captain humorously explained that if the ship sunk entirely, the Sun Deck would still be above water due to the rivers shallow depth; to the obvious relief of some.  We then adjourned to dinner in the well-appointed dining room.

The overall impression one gets is that of comfort, elegance, and attentive, professional service. The lines owners and crew clearly know that one only gets one chance of making a first impression.

Day Two. The nighttime experience aboard was quite good. The beds are comfortable, and the individual heating and air conditioning system allows for a personal temperature selection. The bed pillows are hypoallergenic cut foam and a little stiff for my taste as I prefer feather or down, but not so uncomfortable as to interfere with my sleep. The ship glides silently throughout the night with no engine noise or shuddering.

We began the day with breakfast in the ships dining room, which consisted of a breakfast buffet or several offerings from the menu served on white table cloths. I had a made to order omelet, sausage, two excellent croissants, fresh fruit and coffee. A very nice meal served by an attentive waiter.

During the morning and early afternoon the ship cruised along the Mosel toward the German city of Bernkastle. The views along the way were lovely, consisting of fall colors along the riverbank and surrounding hills and the occasional castle or village.

Just prior to lunch guests were treated to the first of many interesting wine lectures by Christopher Silva of the St. Francis Winery in Sonoma Valley, California, christened after St. Francis of Assisi in recognition of St. Francis’ role as patron saint and protector of animals and ecology in the natural world.

In mid afternoon we arrived in Bernkastle with its two and three story Medieval “Half Timber’ homes. The houses are smaller at street level and progressively get larger and higher because their inhabitants were required to pay taxes calculated by the ground space each house covers.

Five guides were available for walking tours of the village that including a wine tasting event at the Bergweiler Winery.  We sampled four fragrant wines from their Riesling and Pinot Noir collection in the Dr. Paulys Probier- und Studierkeller charming tasting room, along with an informative lecture.

This evening we were served a German themed dinner paired with select wines from the St. Francis Winery. Wines served are as follows:

Top to bottom: My Cabin – Violin Deck, Jr. Suite – Violin Deck, Fixed Window Cabin – Piano Deck

My menu selection was Marinated Salmon Trout and Scallops with carrots, cucumber and sour cream sauce; Cream of Pumpkin Soup with roasted seeds; thinly sliced Venison Loin crusted with hazelnut crust with black currant-grape sauce, brussels sprouts, carrots and macaire potato’s; Lukewarm cheese cake with forest berry ragout and crème brule ice cream. This, followed by an excellent selection of cheeses. As always, plate presentation was excellent.

After dinner, we enjoyed La Strada, a group of Belgian musicians that entertained us with “light” classical music.

The three La Strada musicians played the guitar, cello and violin with a remarkable level of skill that kept the passengers in rapt attention. Kudos to whoever brought them on board.

Day 3.  This morning at 10:30 AM passengers were offered a German Fruhschoppen (morning pint) with beer and sausages in the lounge.  Fruhschoppen comes from a German tradition that after Sunday church the men would head to the bars to drink schnapps and the women went home to make a big lunch. It was a very lively affair for a morning activity. Although a little early for drinking beer in my estimation, many other passengers disagreed and hoisted their glasses.

Following Fruhschoppen we were treated to another wine lecture by Christopher Silva of the St. Francis Winery. The lecture, entitled “Sonoma vs. the World”, was accompanied with a comparative tasting of 3 Chardonnay wines. A busy morning for alcohol indeed.

This afternoon we docket right next to the wine town of Zell, home town of ‘Zeller Schwarze Katz’ wine. Zell is located on the impressive Zeller Hamm river bow of the Mosel, and is one of Germany’s most beautiful and diverse wine regions.

The village itself, deep in the Mosel Valley, has narrow alleyways, centuries-old historic framework houses with steep gables, romantic village squares with ornate fountains, Gothic, Baroque and modern churches that are all appealing cultural sights well worth seeing.

This evening a musician from Zell greeted us as we disembarked the ship leading passengers through the town center to the Cellars of City Hall, across from the cities “Black Kat” statue, for a special event hosted by the city’s mayor and Wine Queen. Several local top vintners introduced us to the regions viticulture with free-flowing Black Kat wine and numerous regional dishes.

Having experienced all the wine I could take in one day, I returned to the ship, and my cabin, to find the nightly chocolates on my pillow from house keepings turn down service. Others with voracious appetites and better bladders than mine remained in Zell until the ships “All Aboard”!! call at 1:45 AM.

Panorama of Cochem with the Cochem Imperial Castle on the right side

Day 4. After a night sailing we awoke to find ourselves docked in the village of Cochem, dominated by the Reichsburg Castle.

Tucked tight along the riverside with just under 5,000 inhabitants, Cochem was settled early in Celtic and Roman times and is probably the most visited village along the Mosel River.

With only a few hours to visit Cochem, both bike and walking tours left the ship at 9 AM, which included a minivan ride up to the Imperial Castle. I noted that some of the revelers from the night before did not seem the worse for wear.

Top to bottom: Fall on the Mosel, Half Timber Homes of Bernkastle

A word about Micro Climates. A microclimate is the climate of a small area that is different from the area around it. It may be warmer or colder, wetter or drier, or more or less prone to frosts. In the case of the small villages along the section of the Mosel we recently traversed, it’s colder. These villages are snugly fit along the Mosel’s bank, several hundred feet below the surrounding bluff peaks, and the temperatures plunged to just above freezing, especially at night. Due to this fact, you are well advised to bring along some clothes that allow you to “layer” during this part of the voyage. As we turned onto the flatter countryside surrounding the Rhine at Koblenz, the temperature warmed again.

Each day when returning from our tours and walks about the cold Mosel villages we were greeted on board by a staff member offering warm towels and Glühwein or tea. Glühwein is popular in German-speaking countries and the region of Alsace in France. It is the traditional beverage offered and drunk during the Christmas holidays. It is usually prepared from red wine, heated and spiced with cinnamon sticks, vanilla pods, cloves, citrus and sugar. A very nice touch on a cold day.

We sailed for Koblenz at 12:30 PM and went to lunch, eating while looking out the dining room windows as the scenic vistas of the Mosel slowly passed by. The fall colors of the vineyards and passing trees were a beautiful mottled yellow and orange. This is a lovely and gracious way to travel.

Just prior to dinner we received another lecture by Christopher Silva for a wine blending demonstration. He is a wealth of knowledge, and is slowly educating us about the art of winemaking and introducing our pallets to his personal wine selections.

After dinner the ship arrived in the city of Koblenz, and docked near the city’s old town. Koblenz is much larger than any of our previous stops with a population of 115,000, and located at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers. This spot is dominated by the largest fortress situated anywhere along the Rhine, the immense Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. Built over 1000 years ago, the fortress now houses several museums and is gloriously lighted in the evening.

Some of us went for an evening stroll along the river winding up at the huge monument dedicated to Kaiser Wilhelm I, located at the “Deutsches Eck” or “German Corner” park, exactly at the two rivers confluence. The tip of the park is shaped like a ship’s prow, overlooked by an enormous equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm mounted on an equally-huge stone base that you can climb for a great view of the rivers and opposite shore where the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is situated.

The Wine Cellars of City Hall

Day 5. This morning we boarded a motorcoach to take us on a day boat trip of the Rhine Gorge. The Upper Middle Rhine Valley is one of the most magnificent and oldest cultural landscapes in Europe. This section of the Rhine, between the old Roman town of Koblenz and the towns of Bingen and Rüdesheim, were included on the list of world heritage sites in the year 2002 by UNESCO.  It is hard to find something similar in Europe. The exceptional views of around 40 castles, mansions and fortresses between Koblenz and Bingen make this a highlight of the cruise and is not to be missed.

We arrived back on board the ship in the late afternoon to find that the dining room was preparing a Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Dinner for that evening. The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is the world’s oldest international gastronomic society, founded in Paris in 1248. It is devoted to preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and to promoting excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts. Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the old French royal guild of meat roasters. Revived in 1950, the society has professional and amateur members in more than 70 countries worldwide.

The meal prepared by our chef was French, and was so extraordinary that I have included it for your review.

Top to botttom: Koblenz- Ehrenbreitstein Fortress at night, Old Town

Each course was beautifully presented and served, as usual. This, dear readers, is no time to be on a diet.

Later, in the ships lounge, a musical group performed for listening and dancing. At three AM the AmaDante departed for Cologne.

The Upper Middle Rhine Valley

Day 6.  This morning we arrived in Cologne, which is located on both sides of the Rhine River, and is Germany’s fourth largest city. Our time in Cologne is short, so we opted for a walking tour through the old part of the city, visiting its legendary 13th-century Gothic cathedral, seat of the Catholic Archbishop of Cologne. It is an absolute stunning structure started in 1248, and completed in 1880. In 1996, it was designated a World Heritage site.

We also enjoyed a tasting of Kölsch Beer at the Früh Brewery. Like the name “Champagne” in France, the name “Kölsch” is protected by law so that only beers brewed in and around Cologne can use the name. Its taste is somewhat sweet and subtle in flavor, and served in a rod style glass.

Others took a guided bike tour of Cologne with the Früh Brewery their last stop for obvious reasons. This afternoon, the ship departed Cologne and cruised toward Amsterdam.

This evening we attended the Captain’s Wine Dinner. Although it was suggested that male passengers wear coats, few did, preferring to dress in nice but more casual clothes. The evenings wine selections were provided by the St. Francis Winery. We chose to sit at a two top table up against a banquette and were pleased with the small restaurant feel that it gave us. We were grateful for the thoughtfulness of the restaurants design. As usual there was the nice assortment of appetizers, soups, entrees and desserts.  I have become very fond of the selection of international cheeses offered every evening, and intend to add them to my home menu upon return.

Top to bottom: Amersterdam Coffee Shop and Red Light District

Day 7.  Sex, Drugs & Rock and Roll. We arrived in contrary Amsterdam this morning with its legal prostitution and Marijuana with the contradictory backdrop of interesting architecture, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh museum, and the Ann Frank House. Amsterdam is a very open and tolerant city with a diverse population

We began our day with a scenic canal cruise through Amsterdam, sometimes referred to as the “Venice of the North.” Canals encircle Amsterdam’s city center, and a canal cruise provides a good vantage point for admiring the beautiful buildings and merchant homes that line the water. We saw the fabled Skinny Bridge, and the famous Anne Frank House. Afterwards, we went on a panoramic motor coach tour of Amsterdam, in which we saw its most famous landmarks, including the Royal Palace and a photo stop at the Rembrandt Windmill.

Following our motor coach tour we had free time to explore the city on foot, looking for some of the more infamous aspects of the city. We quickly stumbled upon a number of “Coffeeshops” with clouds of marijuana smoke wafting into the street. Coffeeshops in Amsterdam are not where one goes for a soothing cup of Starbucks, but establishments in the Netherlands where the sale of cannabis for personal consumption by the public is tolerated by the local authorities.

Under the drug policy of the Netherlands, the sale of cannabis products in small quantities is allowed by ‘licensed’ coffee shops. The majority of these “coffeeshops” (in Dutch written as one word) also serve drinks and food. Coffeeshops are not allowed to serve alcohol (although in the past some coffeeshops in central Amsterdam have transgressed this law without reproach)or other drugs, and risk closure if they are found to be selling soft drugs to minors, or hard drugs. The idea of coffeeshops was introduced in the 1970′s for the explicit purpose of keeping hard and soft drugs separated.

We went in one, of course, and received instruction on the many varieties offered by strength or promised effect. For about two Euros one can purchase a “joint”, with or without tobacco included, with names such as Bubblicious and White Rhino, and then can sit outside in the sunlight and fresh air or inside contemplating 60’s style wall murals and recordings of Frank Zappa. We chose…ah, never mind.

Later we walked through Amsterdam’s “Red Light District”, where prostitution is legal. From brothels to sex shops to sex shows, the Red Light District leaves little to the imagination. The Rossebuurt, as the locals know it, is where women of many nationalities parade their wares in red-fringed window parlors. Another familiar image of the Red Light District is of packs of men, young and old, couples holding hands and pointing in shock of it all, giggling groups of women, and busloads of Japanese tourists toting cameras.

Perhaps what few really notice is that the Rosseburt (Dutch for ‘pink’ or ‘red’ neighborhood) is in fact one of the oldest and most beautiful parts of the city with its long, winding, narrow cobbled streets and utterly charming 14th century architecture, such as the gothic Oude Kerk, or Old Church. The Red Light District simply oozes charm and one cannot help but admire the old buildings that lean at odd-angles, and the tree-enshrouded canals.

When visiting the district, however, keep in mind the following: It is strictly forbidden to take pictures of windows occupied by the prostitutes, be careful of pickpockets, travel as a group or at least as a couple, and do not buy drugs from wandering dealers or you may find yourself breaking the law.

We returned to the AmaDante for cocktail hour in the lounge followed by a Dutch dinner onboard. As this was our last night aboard, passengers gathered in the lounge after dinner to share stories, photographs, and addresses with each other. Many passengers had made good friends with others on board, and wished to keep in touch or share another cruise together in the future.

Gratuities are customary expressions of appreciation for a job well done, and two envelopes for them appeared in our cabin on the last night of our journey.  It was recommended that guests leave 3 Euros per passenger, per day for the Cruise Director, and 12 Euros per passenger, per day for the crew. Such thanks for services provided are always at the guest’s discretion of course, as are the amounts given.

Day 8. Departure began at 10 AM, and was an easy affair. AMA Waterways had arranged transportation to the airport, or taxi service for those staying in Amsterdam or going to the train station. The process was orderly, farewells were said, and suitcases were carried for passengers to their preferred mode of transportation.

In closing, it seems to me that AMA Waterways Fall Wine Cruises, to be offered again next year, may prove popular with those who wish to avoid summer crowds, experience the fall scenery along the two rivers, and enjoy learning about and partaking of some of Germany’s best wines. All this, onboard a beautiful ship that provides excellent personal service.

You could do worse than getting off your 5,000 passenger behemoth cruise ship next year and Come-Here and Do- This.

The Amadante's deck plan

Following my stay in Paris,  I spent the next seven days cruising the waters of the Mosel and Rhine Rivers aboard one of Europe’s most luxurious riverboats, the MS AmaDante, on an AMA Waterways exclusive Wine Cruise highlighting some of Europe’s most acclaimed wine regions.

After a successful trial run last year, AMA Waterways offered several fall wine cruises this year in an effort to bolster shoulder season business. These cruises take advantage of fewer tourists in port cities, the beautiful fall colors of the surrounding countryside, and the regions famous wine culture.

The cruise includes an on board wine expert to share his knowledge of wine and provide wine tastings, lectures, and wine pairings throughout the journey. In addition, the cruise includes winery visits and other wine-oriented shore excursions.

The result is an elegant, entertaining and educational affair offered exclusively by AMA Waterways.  Only a lucky few have Been-Here-Done-This.

Let’s start with a brief review of the ship and its features:

The MS AmaDante, took her maiden voyage on June 1, 2008 setting new standards in European River cruising. She carries 178 passengers in staterooms from 170-255 sq. ft., 80 percent of which offer French balconies, and is staffed by a highly-trained professional crew with an ongoing emphasis on personal service.

Features onboard include: Plenty of bicycles which can be used by passengers, free of charge, to explore the small towns along the way, a fitness room, massage and beauty salon, dining room, forward and aft lounges and an elevator. 170 sq. ft. staterooms provide a hair dryer, terry bath robes, slippers, monitors and keyboards with internet access, English language TV stations, movie selection and music programs, and a satellite telephone system service for a nominal fee. Junior Suites are spacious at 255 square feet featuring a sitting area with a sofa and two chairs, floor-to-ceiling windows with French balconies and extra spacious bathrooms with bathtubs and showers.

The reception area is chandeliered with marble floors, a curving dual wood-railed staircase on the right leading to the ships three cabin decks and the ships dining room, and a wood and marbled countered reception desk on the left. An original of the Dutch artist Walter van Oel hangs above the reception desk, and reproductions of the Austrian artist Friedreich Hundertwasser adorns the walls. This combines to create a sense of elegance, which is carried on throughout the ship.

The reception area is where the ships elevator is located, providing access to all cabin decks and the ships dining room. The elevator does not go to the ships Sun Deck, however, which is occasionally utilized for disembarkation when the ship is parked outboard of other ships that are in port. As well, the cobble stone streets in the visited villages may require extra assistance for some.

Just off the reception area is the ships lounge. Spacious and comfortable, the lounge offers panoramic views of the passing scene on three sides.  The use of white Tuscan style grooved square columns, fabric covered loveseats, end and coffee tables, intimate seating arrangements for two to eight passengers over coordinated carpeting creates comfortable and intimate space. Round wooden tables with club chairs add to seating variety.

The ships dining room continues the use of white Tuscan style grooved square columns and fabric covered chairs along with white table linens at every meal creating an elegant ambiance. Here, special attention has been paid to seating arrangements, providing more seating for two and four persons than traditional cruise ships. As well, the dining room employs banquettes backed by low room dividers to create intimate seating arrangements. All meals are served with open seating by a capable, formally attired, wait staff and sommelier.

Breakfast on board consists of  an assortment of breads, croissants and pastries, a variety of fresh fruit, yogurt, cereals, waffles, scrambled eggs, and smoked salmon with a member of the kitchen staff preparing fresh omelets to order. A number of traditional breakfast items are also available from the menu, such as Eggs Benedict.

Special attention was given to “Early” or “Late” risers by providing excellent pastries and coffee or tea in the ships lounge pre or post breakfast hours. There were rumors that passengers appeared as early as 6:30 AM for this service (which seemed quite appalling to me); and others stumbled down just in time for a quick coffee and then lunch.

Coffee and tea service is available in the lounge 24/7, accompanied by an assortment of cookies until the wee hours.

Lunch consists of homemade soups, numerous salad selections, cold cuts and cheeses (applying the art of Garde Manger) and several additional selections from the menu. Pastries and desserts are offered to finish.

Dinner menus offer a choice of three appetizers, two soups, three entrees, and two desserts, along with a fine assortment of international cheeses as well as fresh fruits. Fresh breads, soft drinks, cocktails, beer and wines are always available.

For the health conscious, each menu provides “Healthy Choice” and “Low Calorie” notations; warnings I chose to studiously ignore.

Of special mention here is the excellent attention to detail the kitchen put forth in the way in which plate service was presented. The use of garnishes, color, texture and arrangement was excellent, exhibiting the chef’s artistic talents.

In addition, the ships Pastry Chef provided delicious offerings showing excellent culinary skill.

Another public space on the ship is the Aft Lounge; a wicker furnished reading and game room surrounded on three sides by floor to ceiling windows. This large, quiet space provides passengers with a place to get away from the ships more active areas. I found the offering of this room especially telling of AMA Waterways decision making process and emphasis on passenger comfort.

As with all such hospitality endeavors, the offering of public space brings with it a consideration of how much revenue will be generated by offering it. Non revenue generating space is often avoided with an eye to the bottom line.

In this case, AMA Waterways has placed guest comfort above such considerations. The Aft Lounge could easily have been designed as a bar, food service facility, or additional cabins, to generate extra profit. Instead, they showed concern for passenger comfort; no small act of thoughfulness.

Located in the aft area of the Violin Deck, and off the Aft Lounge, is the ships Wellness Area that includes a glassed-in fitness room, sauna, bathrooms, shower, massage and beauty salon. As are the rest of the ships public areas, the Wellness Area was always spotless.

To summarize, the AmaDante is very well maintained, nicely decorated, and scrupulously clean throughout, in both its public spaces and guest cabins.

One further thing: this is a river going ship, not an ocean going one. The ship is nowhere near as large as an ocean liner. There are no climbing walls, casinos, movie theaters or dance classes here; and while there is evening entertainment, there are no floor shows, hypnotists or magicians to be found. It is also a much more personal experience. The crew learns your preferences and may call you by name, as the crew to guest ratio is very high. So, if you enjoy sharing your cruise experience with 5,000 others (a small town), then this may not be for you.

With this information as a backdrop, we’ll next discuss the daily activities offered by the AmaDante…

Paris. There are over 1600 hotels in Paris, with the average hotel rate for first class properties at about $468 per night.  Deluxe properties charge closer to $560.  And while comfortable, these rooms are smaller than most US hotel rooms, yet are where most visitors stay. Haven’t most visitors to Paris already Been-There-Done-That?

So, en route to taking an AMA Waterways Wine Cruise departing from Paris, I decided to explore some alternatives. And did I say Paris hotel rooms are small and expensive? Yes, I did.

View from my apartment balcony at night; the architechture was quite lovely.

After sorting through several possibilities using several web sites (I found Trip advisor to be very useful), I decided to embark on taking an apartment for a week, and found one in the Central Marais District for $251 per night. It was advertised as a nicely furnished two bedroom, one bath, living room, dining room, and full kitchen with a slight view of Notre Dame. Let’s see, one room for $468 per night vs. a two bedroom apartment for $251 per night. It seemed to me that if you hadn’t already Been-There-Done-That, you should have.

I used one of my favorite web sites, Trip Advisor, to do my search. I especially like this site because they don’t sell anything and therefore have little motive to promote one property over another. The only ratings they publish come from previous occupants, who are often quite candid. The property that I selected had a large number of reviews rating the apartment 4.5 out of 5, and a number of photographs of every room. I avoided all properties with fewer than 5 reviews, as unscrupulous owners have been known to rate their own properties, or were short on photos. No photo of the bedroom? Hmm, I wondered why.

I also did an internet search to see if the property in question actually existed, whether or not it had been involved in any previous scams, or had a real bank account. There are reports of unsuspecting travelers sending payments to fictitious owners only to find out upon arrival that no such property exists, or finding a perplexed homeowner in residence.

Pictured (Top to bottom, left to right) View from the balcony, kitchen, living room, living room (alternate view), outside the apartment, bedroom (one of two in the apartment)

Having done due diligence, I booked my selected property on line and set off for “The City of Light”.  I arrived in Paris early on a cool November morning and set off from CDG to the Marias in search of my accommodations, taking a convenient train to the Hotel de Ville metro station located within one block of the apartment.

The apartment was nicely located on a small street named rue de la Verrerie, surrounded by several brasseries and small restaurants. There are two grocery stores on the same block, and a Metro entrance to the Hotel de Ville one block away. The Pompidou is close by in one direction and Notre Dame the other. The Marias itself is a lively area with many restaurants, stores and residential apartments along narrow cobblestone streets.

The apartment is up a circular wooden and stone staircase on the 4^th floor, with no elevator available. We had only carry-on luggage, yet found the climb tiring by the time we got to the 4^th floor landing. The building appears to be in good repair and inhabited by local residents.

A few yards down a short hallway brought us to our front door of heavy green metal. Just inside is a short hallway with a small living room on the right that is well lit during the day by several large windows looking out over a busy street scene full of local shops and pedestrians.

The beamed ceilinged Living/Dining Room is nicely furnished with a small couch, leather easy chair, coffee table, book case, a wooden dining table with four chairs, and a shelf containing a large color television and wireless router. The carpeting throughout is of a jute type that was rough on the feet (bring slippers), along with softer rugs next to the beds and in the living room. One difficulty is the lack of reading lights in the living room or over the dining room table. After dark one needs to go to the kitchen or one of the bedrooms to read, or plan your next day’s activities over a map or guide book.

The view from the large living room windows is of the Rue du Renard, and is especially nice at night when the lovely architecture across the avenue is lighted.

The bedrooms are quite comfortable with soft. large beds, night stands with good reading lamps, an easy chair and ample closet space with good hangers. The front bedroom off the living room is large with three French windows offering nice views of street scenes and surrounding buildings. The second bedroom is smaller, but just as comfortable as the first, with one French window and similar furnishings.

The kitchen is small with a two top table, modern appliances, and a window overlooking the street scene below. Dishes, silverware, and cooking utensils are provided, as is a dishwasher. We were disappointed not to find a good serrated bread knife available for the wonderful French breads found nearby. A bottle of local French wine had been left as a welcoming gift.

The unit’s bathroom has about 5 by 6 feet of floor space, a sink, washer and dryer, stool, towel warming rack, and large walk in shower with two showerheads to select from. Water pressure was good and hot water was abundant at all hours. The water closet (emphasize closet) is in a very small separate room on the other side of the apartment and is bare, rough, but functional. It works well, but is not an agreeable space.

Le Petit Marcel 65 rue Rambuteau 75004 Paris Neighborhood: 4ème arr. L’AS du Fallafel 34 rue des Rosiers

The one serious difficulty we experienced was that the apartment is managed by a local service that was not available to let us in upon arrival. We had paid for the night prior to our arrival so that we would not have to drag suitcases around waiting for the normal check in time. Although friendly when they did arrive, we were tired and did not appreciate the lack of timeliness. An additional problem with this service is that they suggest that they are available by telephone to quickly resolve any difficulties that renters may have. Yet although the apartment has a telephone available, it does not reach cell phones and yes, you guessed it, the service has no land line. Should you not have a cell phone with you, it would be necessary to find a public telephone to call them, which is not readily available.

Yet even with the few problems, we found the apartment to be of good value and great convenience. It’s a small, nice apartment in a very good location for visiting Paris.

Paris has thousands of restaurants to choose from, and most of them are good. They can also be quite expensive. The following are two that we found that are reasonably priced (10-15 Euros), within walking distance from the apartment, and that get consistently good ratings.

The Le Petit Marcel is a very small French restaurant near the Pompidou Center. It has very friendly service, good atmosphere, very good food, and is inexpensive. Excellent escargot!

The L’AS du Fallafel has the best Fallafel I have ever eaten, is inexpensive, and in the nearby Jewish quarter.  It seemed to always be busy, but is worth the wait.

As a travel writer with over 40 years experience in the hotel and tourism industries, I have often confidently said that I had Been-There-Done-That. At least I thought so until I recently visited the Thimbleberry Inn in Bayfield, Wis.

To be fair, the large guest rooms and Lake Superior lakefront grounds of the Inn are lovely. The private decks and wooden loveseats overlooking the Apostle Islands are romantic and peaceful; exactly what we expected.

Then there is the owner of the property and where the similarity with the infamous “Bates Motel” comes in.

Following our first night at the Inn we took a short drive into the charming lakeside village of Bayfield for lunch, returning mid-afternoon to accept our hostess’s offer to make a dinner reservation for us at a local restaurant. Upon knocking on her door, however, I noticed that she approached in a somewhat crab-like sidewise gate, glaring over her raised shoulder at us. As the door opened she launched into a disturbingly shrill eye-rolling rant about our unpardonable lack of adherence to her (unspoken until now) guest policies. We must leave at once!

Among our sins were that I had fondled our shower head to increase water pressure, we had not made our beds, I had slept in and not come to breakfast and that we had not socialized enough with the other guests. We were also not married, an offense that had resulted in her throwing out another couple once before.

In addition, we strongly suspect that my companion had not bowed her head deeply enough under the proprietor’s watchful eyes at the hand-holding prayer breakfast of canned peaches over waffles earlier that morning. This was especially distressing as it was fresh peach season.

Her alarming tirade lasted an incessant 10 minutes recounting our transgressions numerous times, insisting that the increased water flow from our shower head had nearly torn down her home, that her husband had now left her because of it and she would now be forced to sell off the property.

Just for a moment I considered reminding her of the legal and customer service obligations of Inn ownership, but her fanatical rant, and how it was related to a shower, gave me an uneasy Alfred Hitchcock flashback, so it seemed safer to leave without dispute.

Upon relating our experience at the front desk of a substitute accommodation in town we were greeted with wide grins and knowing looks. “Did she make you pray?” they laughed. Mrs. Bates, it turns out, is a legend in her own time.

My grown son and I arrived in Edinburgh bleary eyed with a serious case of jet lag, but happy to be off the airplane. We chose to stay in Edinburgh for two nights for the primary purpose of putting the effects of jet lag behind us prior to moving on to Inverness and joining our cruise of the Scottish Highlands.

We had booked the Four-Star Novotel Hotel City Center precisely because of its four-star rating, and that they had twice confirmed a double queen bedded room in a quiet part of the hotel for us. The second confirmation was made directly from me via email, as double queen rooms are not the norm in the UK.

Upon arrival at the front desk the desk clerk again confirmed the double queen room reservation saying that all was in order, gave us our key, and we were directed to our assigned room, #303.

You might imagine our jet-lagged irritation upon finding that our accommodations provided one queen size bed with a pull out couch overlooking a bus stop on a busy street! And this was no modern (although never acceptable) pull out couch, but one of those long distained types with the metal bar across one’s back. A call to the front desk confirmed that the hotel had no double queen rooms in its inventory, none at all! And that with the window shut the traffic noise should be quiet enough for us to sleep. Four- star indeed.

Too exhausted to seek out other accommodations, we despondently shut the offending window, turned on the air conditioning and gratefully dozed off; for about an hour. We awoke to find the room very warm and oppressive. Still exhausted, we called the front desk to ask if our air conditioner could be adjusted and were told that a maintenance man would be sent up to rectify the situation.

Upon his arrival he felt the vent opening, fiddled with the in room controls, felt the vent opening again, fiddled again, and then explained that the air was as cool as it was going to get. When we expressed our disapproval he shrugged his shoulders and informed us that the hotel did not “technically” have air conditioning! Technically? Really? As it turned out, the hotel did not “technically” have hot water or light fixtures that worked either.

We opened the window again with hopes that the traffic noise had quieted and tried again to sleep. With the window open the room started to cool off a bit and we slept; until the strip clubs around the corner closed and their intoxicated and profane patrons stumbled into the street and past directly below our window. Lovely.

In fairness I should point out that the staff, when not shrugging at our concerns, was always pleasant. Nevertheless, while the Novotel may qualify as a four-star property by the Scottish Tourist Boards definition, it does not meet international standards. Three-star on a good day, and to be avoided.

Editors note: Edward Garrett and his 26-year-old son Will just returned from a week’s sailing on the Scottish Highlander luxury barge. His son is reporting on the trip from his perspective in a separate blog on this site.

Third of three reports.

The Scottish Highlander offers a number of rather good excursions by minibus on a daily basis hosted by the ships very charming tour guide Loren.

Eilean Donan Castle

Included on our cruise were beautiful Cawdor Castle immortalized in Shakespeare’s Macbeth, Urquhart Castle on the banks of Loch Ness, Invermoriston Falls, romantic Eilean Donan Castle (the setting for the film “The Highlander,”) the WW II Commando memorial, Neptune’s Staircase — the longest staircase lock in the UK, which lifts boats 64 feet, the woolen mills at Spean Bridge, the mystic battlefields of Glencoe and the Ben Nevis distillery.

There are also bicycles available on board for use between locks or to visit local villages, walks following the same routes or hikes up into the surrounding mountains.

Will tries golf in the Highlands

Fort Augustus offers a charming heather laced golf course where sheep act as greens keepers, roaming the course at will. The grinning starter pointed out in his best brogue that sheep droppings could simply be kicked off the greens without the loss of a stroke! And by the way, getting out of the heather is much more difficult that the rough found on American courses.

Captains Dinner bagpiper

The last evening of the cruise is a farewell Captains Dinner; men wear jackets if they have them. Our genial captain arrived for dinner in kilt (which we hoped he would do), and talked to us of his life in the Highlands. During cocktails we were serenaded by a local piper in full kilt for about half an hour. He joined us for a wee dram after.

One gains a new appreciation for bagpipes when you see them played in full kilt with the misty Scottish Highlands as a background.

In fact, one gains a new appreciation of the Scottish Highlands from the deck of the Scottish Highlander. It’s as good as it gets in this rough Highland countryside, and a truly unique experience.

Neptune's Staircase

WWII memorial

Editors note: Edward Garrett and his 26-year-old son Will just returned from a week’s sailing on the Scottish Highlander luxury barge. His son is reporting on the trip from his perspective in a separate blog on this site.

Second of three reports

Our traveling companions consisted of two well-traveled couples (one from London and the other from Sydney) who showed great consideration for other guests, an absolute necessity in such close quarters. In fact, it quickly becomes apparent that the good temperament of your traveling companions is essential for a pleasant journey. In fact, our traveling companions were so enamored with this type of cruising that they were on their second and fourth cruises with European Waterways, and assured me that they had never once experienced ungracious traveling companions.

Meals on board accommodate all guests at a single non-assigned seating, and were excellent.  Rather than a menu, all meals are table d’hôte consisting of starters, a main dish and dessert dishes, and were introduced by our affable chef Dale just prior to being served. The cuisine was Scottish and always paired with a very nice selection of wines.

Table set for lunch

Special food requirements such as vegetarian or allergies are catered to if requested in advance (at least eight weeks prior to departure).

The galley was good-sized and immaculate

I was able to visit the ship’s galley on numerous occasions to observe the chef at work. To my surprise he used no recipes, but prepared everything from memory; sometimes changing preparation in midstream as his imagination dictated. Very creative indeed.

The kitchen itself was larger than you might imagine on a hotel barge, and well equipped. Food storage, handling and preparation followed good standard techniques and the cleaning and sanitizing of equipment followed industry doctrine.

Absolutely delicious full Scottish breakfasts were served at guest’s convenience including regional bacon and sausage, eggs (in various styles), porridge, haggis, black pudding, cereals, toast and breads, coffee, tea, fruit and juice.

I actually liked the haggis and black pudding!

I had tried both haggis and black pudding on previous trips to Scotland and found them, shall I say, unappetizing. Our chef, however, assured me that they had probably been prepared incorrectly, and urged me to try his. They were both delectable!

Lunch and dinner began with our guide introducing us to the wines that would accompany our meal: their origins, history and pairing rational. Wines from the U.S., Chili, Argentina, France, Spain, Italy and Portugal were served and all were first-rate.

Following the wines being served for our starters, the chef walked us through the meal offerings. He was indeed talented, combining texture, flavor, aroma and presentation in the creation of delicious dishes. His selections were imaginative and took full advantage of fresh local products. While the guests on board were well familiar with fine cuisine from their own experiences, all were impressed and appreciative of his skills. Table service was always friendly and attentive.

The regional cheeses were outstanding

Of special note were the offerings of regional Scottish cheeses following each meal. Not widely known for its cheeses, the assortments were absolutely delicious, high quality and surprising in their variety. There are currently more than two dozen cheese makers across Scotland, many from small creameries and farms. We were served excellent examples of Howgate, Scottish Brie, Brodick Blue, Crowdie, Swinzie and the perennial favorite, Scottish Cheddar.

Our assortment of single malt scotches

By way of after-dinner entertainment, our group spent a little time each evening sampling the wide selection of single malt whiskies aboard, rating each in turn. On the last evening we had the “Final Four” playoffs to determine which whisky from which region of Scotland we enjoyed the most.  My favorite has always been Lagavulin from Islay, but I was out-voted. The best?  Sorry. It’s really better if you do your own research and gain valuable insight into the truth about Nessie sightings.

Next: An interesting assortment of shore excursions from the Scottish Highlander

Editors note: Edward Garrett and his 26-year-old son Will just returned from a week’s sailing on the Scottish Highlander. This is his report. His son is reporting on the trip from his perspective in a separate blog on this site.

Over the past several years an emergent group of travelers have found European luxury Barge cruises a way to solve their “Been there, done that” dilemma, and few do it better than European Waterways.

Scottish Highlander route

Established in 1974, European Waterways offers 27 luxury barges that cruise throughout Europe and Great Britain with air conditioned en suite cabins, gourmet meals, fine wines and interesting shore excursions. Each barge is unique in its furnishings and cuisine, and gently cruises from one peaceful mooring to the next through carefully selected rivers and canals.

For this trip we selected the Scottish Highlander, which cruises Scotland’s’ Caledonian Canal (including Loch Ness) from Dochgarroch to Fort William.  The cruise passes by ancient castles and navigates numerous locks as it passes through the heather-covered Scottish Highlands and past Ben Nevis, Scotland’s’ highest mountain at 1,344 meters. It is an absolutely beautiful trip and an excellent way to enjoy these somewhat remote environs in comfort and leisure.

This is a barge, not a cruise ship

Let me put this experience into perspective. This is a barge, not a cruise ship. The Scottish Highlander is 117 feet long and a little over 16 feet wide. There are no climbing walls, casinos, movie theaters or dance classes here. No television or internet (a very good thing indeed), and even cell phone connections are spotty. Interior space and cabin size is necessarily small, and the boat carries a maximum capacity of up to eight passengers.

Scottish Highlander luxury barge

With these things in mind, a review comparing a luxury barge cruise to a traditional cruise ship simply does not equate. With this understanding, let me introduce you to the Scottish Highlander experience.

Guests are met by the cruise tour guide Loren at the Glenmoriston Town House Hotel (more about this lovely hotel later) located on the River Ness in Inverness, and taken to the ship’s mooring in Dochgarroch or Fort William, depending on which way your individual cruise is passing through the Caledonian Canal (the direction alternates weekly).  My first impression of the Scottish Highlander is that she has a first-rate appearance. She is narrow, has large windows on both sides of the boat from fore to aft, and looks well maintained.

Once on board, there are five steps down into a mahogany walled saloon with brass fittings, furnished in comfortable leather seating over tartan carpeting. The room includes the aforementioned seating area, dining room table for eight and large windows with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Finished off with landscape paintings and tasteful wall sconces, the room’s effect is that of rustic comfort. Coffee, tea, fruit and cookies are always available on a sideboard, and a self serve bar including a very nice assortment of single malt whiskies is located at the far end of the saloon.

The saloon on board

Interior space and cabin size are necessarily small

Traveling forward along a narrow passageway are three twin- or double-bedded cabins and a suite, each named after a Scottish clan: Macpherson, Mackintosh and Frazer cabins and the Cameron suite.

Each accommodation continues the brass fittings, mahogany and tartan decor and includes en suite bathrooms. To be certain, the cabins are small at 11’ 6” by 6’ 10”, with the Cameron Suite larger at 12’ by 12’ 4”; but high wide windows (that open) and a good continuation of decor from the main saloon diminishes the effect.

The bathrooms are fully tiled and a tight fit with a toilet, sink and shower. Water pressure is good and hot water abundant. A drawback for a person of large stature are the cabin showers, which are quite small. At 5”11’ and 195 pounds the fit was tight but feasible for me. A rotund 250 pounder would probably not fit within its confines. Shampoo, washing gel, hand soap, hair dryers, towels and bathrobes/slippers are provided. The barge is wired for 240 volts throughout except for one 110 volt socket in each bathroom. Converters and adapter plugs are necessary for all 240-volt outlets.

The Cameron suite

The single beds are 3 ft x 6 ft. 6”, and doubles are 6 ft x 6” with two usable foam pillows provided for each bed. A thread count of about 300 is utilized for sheeting making sleeping arrangements less than luxurious, but quite comfortable.

Housekeeping was excellent and unobtrusive, with linen changes and general cleaning done while guests are on excursions. In the saloon, tables were cleared immediately and the seating area cleaned regularly. In general, the boat was spotless during our entire cruise.  We even managed to get a small amount of laundry done.

Guests are met upon arrival with champagne, canapes  and an introduction to the crew of four: Captain Dan, Chef  Dale, Hostess Christine and Tour Guide Loren. I found the entire crew very gracious and professional in their abilities throughout the cruise. In fact, guests were warmly treated the entire time with no exception, adding a great deal to the overall experience.

Next: Meet our traveling companions and hear about the fabulous food

A brief word about the Glenmoriston Town House Hotel in Inverness. This lovely property is located in a beautiful setting directly on the River Ness, a five minute walk from city center.

Its 30 guestrooms are elegantly decorated with soft wool carpeting, comfortable beds, flat screen TV’s and wi-fi internet connectivity. The hotel’s Abstract restaurant is stylish and award-winning, and its piano bar offers a huge list of malt whiskies. The hotel is absolutely perfect for overcoming jet lag prior to boarding the Scottish Highlander. Call well in advance for reservations.

Glenmoriston Town House Hotel

“Selective Accommodations”

Simple; open your handy Forbes Travel Guide- (formerly known as the Mobil Travel Guide), select a 5 star hotel, make a reservation and check in; piece of cake.  Hotels that receive a Forbes Travel Guide Five Star rating  must have accommodations, service and amenities that qualify as truly superior; and must not only meet your needs and expectations, but exceed them.  Such attention to detail is expensive to offer, and hotel rates will certainly reflect such standards.  The higher the rating, the better the hotel.  But you knew that.

What you didn’t know is…it depends. It depends on who is awarding the ratings. If it’s Forbes Travel Guide providing them, you’re probably fine. If it’s a local or national government, a volunteer organization, or the King’s brother-in-law, not so much.  Perhaps the lobby is not configured in a way the rating inspector approves of, there is a room in the back without an en-suite bath, or the hotel owner is out of favor with the Monarch. One star for you! Indeed, there are approximately eighty hotel rating systems utilized worldwide, with many countries having no rating systems at all. Umm, what does five monkeys mean?

And then there is always the possibility that the hotel owner simply doesn’t want to be bothered with an annoying   rating system at all. Their reputation, they believe, precedes them. And may!

So what is the Talented Traveler to do? First, if there is indeed a rating system in place, determine its value. A call to your travel agent is a good start. Travel agents are usually knowledgeable in such matters, and can either give you an answer or direct your inquiry to the appropriate place. They are also a secure (and recommended) way to make your final bookings.

Then it’s time for the fun part; some firsthand investigating of you own! In fact, doing so may be your best means to insure that your unique accommodation needs are met. You’re selective, right?

I’ve found that today’s internet provides a wide array of Travel/Hotel Rating Sites  to assist you in your search; although one still must avoid the five monkeys. It’s always in your best interest to select a site that is free of conflicting loyalties or pre-selected offerings. I favor sites that only rate hotels, not sell them; with the widest possible assortment of hotels available.

A benefit to utilizing such sites is that they provide a much more personalized method of hotel selection that puts your requirements first and foremost. One of my favorite travel review sites, TripAdvisor.com, provides interactive maps that not only show a hotel’s location, but its proximity to transportation services, restaurants (also rated) and attractions. In addition, the site offers hotel listings based on both price and popularity, as well as amenities provided.

One of the best benefits of Trip Advisor, and similar sites, is that they publish current hotel ratings provided by visitors to the property in the recent past. This option not only rates the property using an understandable rating scale, but also offers recent visitor photos (the more the better) and detailed commentary on the hotels positive and negative qualities. Hotel offerings can change quickly, and old reviews and ratings may not still be accurate.

Additionally, these guest reviews are broken down into the type of travel engaged in, such as: Business, Couples, Family, Friends Get Away and Solo Travel. Business hotels are not often well-suited for family travelers, and this break down allows you to read ratings by travelers that share your needs.

As useful as Travel/Hotel Rating Sites can be, they must offer the best hotel rates, right? Yet again, it depends. Although the rates they offer can be tempting, and lower than other offers, you may be comparing apples to oranges. In fact, hotels often offer such sites discounted rooms based upon the tried and true supply & demand system. As demand goes up, so do prices. Common sense suggests that no hotel will sell a hotel room for $100 when they can get $200; and they don’t. Hotels offering discounted room rates to such sites often provide only those rooms which they are having trouble selling due to their size, location in the hotel, or over difficult-to-fill dates. All hotel rooms are not the same, and the general rule of thumb applies; you usually get what you pay for. Visiting the hotel’s own web site will often give you a much clearer picture of what you are actually being offered.

And now the trump card. You are likely to find that you are not the first Talented Traveler to have visited a particular hotel, and that they often go into the kind of detail about their experience that you can make excellent use of. Such as: “The shower pressure is great!” “Rooms on the south side of the hotel overlook the river; the north side overlooks the parking lot.” “Don’t forget to ask for the feather pillows.”  “We stayed there for a week, and room number 315 is definitely the largest and most comfortable room in the house!”   “Heaven, 500 thread count sheets!”  OR…”This place is really over rated.”  “The tile was falling off the bathroom wall.”  “The traffic was so loud I didn’t sleep all night.” “This is a seedy part of town.” It’s the kind of detail you want, and can help make your hotel selection experience better.

With a little effort and travel savvy on your part, you can avoid relying on the carefully cropped and worded hotel brochures and self serving advertising, and find a hotel rated well by real travelers, in real time, in a price range and location you prefer, with the amenities you require.  And it’s really kind of fun to do.

And upon your return, do us all a favor and provide your ratings. It’s a jungle out there! Well, it depends.

Mr. Garrett’s 40 year career in the Travel & Tourism Industry includes public and private experience with hotels & resorts, travel destinations, food & beverage facilities, cruise lines, airlines and travel writing. He currently holds the designation of Professor Emeritus after teaching Travel and Tourism for 25 years. He has also been there and done that!